Drill Bit Types: Which Bit for Wood, Metal, Masonry and Tile

Drill bits are not one-size-fits-all. Using a standard twist bit on tile or concrete will dull it quickly, while a masonry bit in wood tears the fibers. This guide explains the common bit types for wood, metal, masonry, and tile, along with the basic speed and lubrication practices that keep bits sharp and holes clean. You will also find advice on building a practical starter set for home projects.

Twist bits and coatings

The twist bit is the most common drill bit. Its spiral flutes remove chips from the hole as it cuts. Twist bits work in wood, plastic, and metal, but the material and coating determine how well they perform.

High-speed steel (HSS) bits are the standard choice for general use. They handle wood and soft metals like aluminum well. For harder metals, coatings and upgraded materials make a real difference.

• Black oxide – A coating that reduces friction and resists rust. These bits last longer than plain HSS and work well in both wood and metal.
• Titanium-coated – A bright gold coating that stays sharp longer than black oxide. Titanium bits cut faster and are a good upgrade for frequent drilling in metal or hardwood.
• Cobalt – Made from HSS with cobalt added, these bits handle stainless steel and other hard metals. They are more brittle than standard bits, so use steady pressure and avoid side loading.

For most home DIY work, a set of black oxide or titanium-coated twist bits covers the majority of jobs. If you regularly drill into stainless steel or hardened steel, add a few cobalt bits in common sizes.

Twist bits have a 118-degree point angle as a common default. This point works fine for wood and soft metal. A 135-degree split point is better for starting holes in metal without the bit wandering. Many modern sets include split-point bits, which are worth choosing if you drill metal often.

Bits for wood

Standard twist bits leave rough edges in wood, especially in plywood or along the grain. Dedicated wood bits produce cleaner holes and faster cutting.

Brad point bits

Brad point bits have a sharp center spur that locates the hole precisely and prevents the bit from skating across the surface. The outer spurs score the wood fibers, leaving a clean entry hole. These bits are ideal for dowel joints, pilot holes, and any visible hole in finished wood.

Spade bits

Spade bits are flat paddles with a pointed tip. They cut fast and are inexpensive, making them a good choice for rough holes in framing lumber or shelving. Spade bits tend to splinter the exit side of the hole, so clamp a scrap piece behind the workpiece or drill from both sides. They come in sizes up to about 1-1/2 inches.

Auger bits

Auger bits have a screw tip that pulls the bit into the wood and deep spiral flutes that clear chips quickly. They are best for deep holes in thick lumber, such as running wiring through studs or boring holes in beams. Auger bits require more torque, so use a drill with a side handle or a corded drill for large sizes.

Forstner bits

Forstner bits cut flat-bottomed holes and do not require a pilot hole. They are the best choice for hinge mortises, recessed holes, and drilling at an angle. Forstner bits cut with a circular rim and leave a clean, precise hole. They are slower than spade bits and need steady pressure at moderate speed. For very large holes, a saw-tooth Forstner bit reduces cutting resistance.

For a complete woodworking set, combine brad point bits for small holes, a few spade bits for rough work, and one or two Forstner bits in sizes you use most, such as 1 inch and 1-1/2 inches.

Bits for metal

Drilling metal requires a sharp bit, the right speed, and lubrication. Standard HSS twist bits work for soft metals, but cobalt bits are better for stainless steel and harder alloys.

Choosing the right twist bit

For mild steel, aluminum, and brass, a good HSS or titanium-coated bit works well. For stainless steel, tool steel, or hardened metal, use cobalt bits. The 135-degree split point helps the bit start without walking, which is important on smooth metal surfaces.

Speed and lubrication

Metal drilling needs slow speed and steady pressure. A common rule of thumb is to run the drill at a lower speed for larger bits. If the bit squeals or smokes, you are going too fast. Use cutting fluid or a few drops of light oil on the hole to keep the bit cool and extend its life. For aluminum, you can use kerosene or a dedicated aluminum cutting fluid.

Start with a small pilot hole for large diameters. Clamp the workpiece securely and use a center punch to make a starting dimple. This prevents the bit from wandering and reduces the chance of breaking the bit.

Do not use wood bits on metal. Spade bits, auger bits, and brad point bits are not designed for metal and will dull or break quickly.

Masonry and concrete

Masonry bits have a carbide tip brazed onto a steel body. The tip is harder than concrete, brick, or stone. These bits are designed to be used with a hammer drill, which delivers a rapid pounding action while the bit rotates.

Standard masonry bits work for brick and soft concrete. For reinforced concrete or very hard aggregate, use a bit with a more aggressive carbide tip geometry. Always check the manufacturer’s instructions for your hammer drill to confirm the correct bit shank type.

Shank types for hammer drills

• Round shank – Fits standard three-jaw chucks on most hammer drills. These are common for light to medium duty work.
• SDS-plus – A splined shank that locks into the chuck with a twisting motion. SDS-plus bits transfer more impact energy and are standard for heavier drilling in concrete.
• SDS-max – A larger version of SDS-plus, used in rotary hammers for big holes in concrete or for chiseling.

For occasional home use, a round-shank masonry bit set in sizes from 1/8 inch to 1/2 inch covers most jobs like hanging shelves or mounting a TV bracket. If you plan to drill many holes in concrete, consider a hammer drill with an SDS-plus chuck and matching bits.

When drilling masonry, use a slow speed with firm pressure. Let the hammer action do the cutting. Do not force the bit or wiggle it sideways, as this can break the carbide tip. Withdraw the bit periodically to clear dust. For deep holes, use a vacuum to remove debris.

Do not use masonry bits in a regular drill without hammer function for concrete. The bit will spin without cutting and dull quickly. For occasional holes in brick or block, a standard drill with a masonry bit can work, but it will be slow.

Tile and glass

Tile and glass require specialized bits with a carbide or diamond tip. Standard twist bits will not cut through glazed ceramic or porcelain.

Carbide-tipped tile bits

Carbide-tipped spear-point bits are the most common choice for ceramic tile. They have a flat, spade-like tip that grinds through the glaze. Use them at a slow speed with light pressure. Start at an angle to create a small notch, then straighten the bit to drill through. Keep the area wet with water to cool the bit and reduce dust.

Diamond core bits

For porcelain tile or glass, diamond-coated core bits or diamond hole saws work best. These are cylindrical bits with diamond grit on the rim. They cut by grinding, so they need water cooling. Diamond bits are available in sizes from small holes for anchors to large holes for pipes or faucets.

For glass, use a carbide spear-point bit or a diamond bit with water. Tape over the spot to prevent the bit from sliding. Drill slowly with light pressure and let the bit do the work. Do not push hard, as glass can crack.

Always wear eye protection when drilling tile or glass, as small shards can fly. Use a spray bottle to keep the drilling area wet.

Hole saws and step bits

Hole saws and step bits solve different problems: large round holes and multiple sizes in thin material.

Hole saws

Hole saws cut large-diameter holes in wood, drywall, plastic, and thin metal. They consist of a cylindrical saw blade with a pilot drill bit in the center. The pilot bit centers the saw, and the teeth cut the perimeter of the hole.

Hole saws are available in sizes from about 3/4 inch up to several inches. Use them for installing door locks, running pipes, or cutting holes in shelving. For metal, choose a bi-metal hole saw, which has teeth made from high-speed steel welded to the body. Use slow speed and cutting fluid for metal.

When using a hole saw, clamp the workpiece securely. Drill at a moderate speed and withdraw the saw periodically to clear chips. Do not force the saw, as this can overheat the teeth or strip the pilot bit.

Step bits

Step bits are conical bits with stepped diameters. They drill progressively larger holes in thin material like sheet metal, plastic, and drywall. Each step increases the hole size by a small increment, so you can drill a precise hole without changing bits.

Step bits are excellent for electrical boxes, cable pass-throughs, and metal enclosures. They leave a clean hole with only a light burr. Use a slow speed and light pressure, and do not push hard enough to stall the drill. Step bits are not suitable for wood or thick materials.

Speed, pressure and lubrication

Drill speed and pressure matter more than most people realize. Using the wrong speed dulls bits quickly and produces poor holes.

Speed guidelines

A common rule of thumb is to use slower speeds for larger bits and harder materials. For wood, you can run at higher speeds. For metal, use slower speeds. For masonry and tile, use the slowest speed on your drill.

Many drills have a two-speed gearbox. Use the low range for large bits, metal, and masonry. Use the high range for small bits in wood and plastic. If the bit starts to smoke or turn blue, you are going too fast.

Pressure

Apply steady, firm pressure without forcing the bit. Let the cutting edges do the work. If you push too hard, you can break the bit, especially with small diameters or cobalt bits. If you push too lightly, the bit will rub and dull without cutting.

For deep holes, withdraw the bit occasionally to clear chips. This prevents clogging and reduces heat buildup.

Lubrication

Use cutting fluid or oil for metal drilling. This cools the bit and improves cutting action. For wood, no lubrication is needed. For tile and glass, use water. For masonry, keep the hole clear of dust but do not use oil.

Never use oil on masonry or tile, as it can create a mess and reduce cutting action.

Starter set advice

You do not need a huge collection of bits to handle most home projects. A practical starter set includes the following:

• A set of HSS or black oxide twist bits from 1/16 inch to 1/2 inch
• A few brad point bits in common sizes like 1/8, 3/16, and 1/4 inch
• A set of spade bits from 1/4 inch to 1 inch
• A masonry bit set from 1/8 inch to 1/2 inch
• A step bit for metal and plastic
• A small hole saw set for larger holes

Add Forstner bits and auger bits as your projects demand them. A good drill bit set often includes twist bits, spade bits, and sometimes masonry bits, which is a cost-effective way to start. For concrete work, buy masonry bits separately in the sizes you need.

Store bits in a case or organizer to keep them sharp and easy to find. Replace bits when they become dull, as a dull bit is more dangerous and produces poor results.

For more on choosing the right drill for your bits, see how to choose a cordless drill. If you are building a complete accessory kit, review tool accessories for other useful items.

FAQ

Can I use a wood bit on metal?

No. Wood bits like spade, auger, and brad point bits are not designed for metal. They will dull quickly and may break. Use HSS, titanium, or cobalt twist bits for metal.

What speed should I use for drilling metal?

Use a slow speed for metal. A common rule of thumb is the larger the bit, the slower the speed. Use cutting fluid and steady pressure. If the bit squeals or smokes, slow down.

Do I need a hammer drill for masonry bits?

For concrete and hard masonry, yes. A hammer drill provides the pounding action needed to break up the material. For soft brick or block, a standard drill with a masonry bit can work but will be slow.

How do I drill tile without cracking it?

Use a carbide-tipped tile bit or a diamond core bit. Start at a slow speed with light pressure. Keep the area wet with water. Tape over the spot to prevent slipping. Do not push hard.

Choosing the right bit for each material is the key to clean holes and long bit life. Start with a versatile set of twist bits, add wood-specific and masonry bits as needed, and always follow the speed and lubrication guidance for the material you are drilling. Read the manual for your drill and bits, and wear eye protection for every drilling job.